Gastronomic delights at Lake Balaton

Dishes and wines of the region can deservedly be mentioned among the many wonders of the Balaton.

The wine of Badacsony is legendary, its unique taste and full-bodied, strong and sometimes spicy aroma come from the soil of the hill, containing friable volcanic rock, and from the Mediterranean climate of its southern slopes. The Badacsony Hill, the best-known grape-producing hill of the region, can be seen from afar, thanks to its individual shape. At the regularly held autumn Vintage Days, everyone can try the famous Pinot Gris named Szürkebarát (Grey Monk) of Badacsony or Kéknyelű, but Welschriesling, Müller-Thurgau, Muscat Ottonel and Tramini are worth tasting as well.

Wines of the region of Füred and Csopak are stronger and more fiery, their character is lighter. Typical wines of this region are Riesling, Welschriesling and Chardonnay. On the hills of Tihany however, blue grapes such as Merlot, Zweigelt and Cabernet Franc are also produced.

Wines from the southern side of the lake, where the soil is sandy and contains loess, have a totally different flavour. Here the wine cellars produce light nectar that is fruity and rich in aromas. The centre of wine production here is Balatonboglár.

Balaton offers dishes characterised by the different types of terrain: water and hills, rolling uplands and the flat plain. Every kind of cooking ingredient is abundantly available. Fish is, of course, the most important typical dish of the region. The most popular fish is the 'whitefish' or bream (keszeg), a slender type of carp that is rolled in paprika-flavoured flour, then fried and is sold on fish stands on the beach. It can be eaten bones and all without hesitation. Next in popularity after the whitefish is the 'fogas' (pikeperch), a predatory fish that can turn the scales up to 10 kg. Smaller specimens of up to 1.5 kg are known as süllő, bigger ones as fogas. With its tender flesh this non-bony fish is comparable in taste with trout and is generally baked whole no matter how big it is. According to tradition, it must be grilled whole until golden brown and served with a slice of lemon in its mouth. Fogas is generally served as a delicacy in posh restaurants. Fish soup (halászlé) is also a well-loved traditional dish; it is most delicious when made from several types of fish.

Dishes prepared from game are also worth trying. From the expansive forests of the hills, roe deer, stags, wild boar, moufflon and fallow deer, while from the large meadows hare, pheasant, and partridge are available for the table. Venison in red wine with blackcurrant jam and croquette potatoes, or back of hare, hunter’s style, with dumplings is really delicious. Finally, gulyás (also called pörkölt) cooked in a cauldron must be mentioned here which is actually a rich ‘stew’ made with beef or veal. Those who come first time from abroad to Lake Balaton should make this dish their first appointment with Hungarian cuisine.

Visitors mainly associate Hungarian cuisine with goulash and paprika and have no idea of how rich it is in vegetable dishes. While green stuff in Europe and North-America are primarily served stewed and solo, in Hungary they are thickened with sour cream or béchamel, served in their jus and are often baked in the oven. In the case of ‘főzelék’-s the result is something between a soup and a creamy garnish. Just to mention a good example, tökfőzelék, which could well be translated as pumpkin á la crème (pumpkin stewed with onion, thickened with sour cream and seasoned with dill) is a must-try but those not blenching real dampers should definitely taste ‘lencsefőzelék sült oldalassal’ (lentil soup/lentil á la crème with fried bald-rib).

Another really delicious Hungarian dish involving meat and vegetable is ‘töltött káposzta’, which is seasoned meat-and-rice balls wrapped in stewed cabbage leaves and poured with sour cream.

Once at Lake Balaton you shouldn’t miss the real specialty of the region: the Csáky rostélyos, which was named after Sándor Csáky, chef of Balatonfüred Palace Sanatorium in the early 1900s, who invented this really savoury dish. In fact it is roastbeef stuffed with lecsó (a mixture of tomato, onions, sweet green or yellow pepper and eggs) and served in a paprika and sour cream sauce and it has conquered most Hungarian restaurants.

Enjoy your meal!